Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Quoddy >>> artisanal moccasin manufacturer

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In 1909 Harry Smith Shorey started making his own shoes in Down east Maine. Today, the tradition continues in Perry, half-way to the North Pole and as far east as you can travel in the continental U.S.
 

Quoddy shoes are inspired by the heritage of craftsmanship of the Native American Passamquoddy tribe, which have an ages old heritage of craftsmanship, from their moccasins to their birch bark canoes and containers to their famous woven baskets, all done without man-made materials or adhesives.
 

Craftsmanship combined with a high level of artistry are what made these products special and allowed them to perform so well in the sometimes harsh conditions encountered in the big woods and ever changing ocean of Maine. Harry Smith was a big believer in the performance and quality of hand sewn moccasin construction and started his manufacture in the time when hand-made was the norm, when output was measured in dozens, not thousands. 

 



Today the shoes are still produced with the same traditional techniques. This exceptional connection to its heritage means that quality and style will be retained for generations to come. At Quoddy, each pair is crafted by a single shoemaker and entirely hand sewn. The quality of these shoes is a testament to the individual skill that went into making them. 

 
 
 

Moccasins represent a specific approach to shoemaking; a footwear philosophy and a construction technique. Quoddy’s method of moccasin construction creates a shoe that functions as a glove for the foot. It surrounds the foot in supple leather, and allows the muscles, bones, and tendons to support the foot naturally as they were intended to do, while offering protection, cushioning, and style.

 

A Quoddy shoe adapts to its wearer and its foot rather than forcing him to accommodate it. It has a natural feel. The wearer is connected to his walking surface, connected to the earth. Even the soles are designed to promote this; they are stitched to the shoe bottom rather than glued so that they maintain flexibility and can be infinitely replaced.
Quoddy moccasins are built to last and stand for comfort, durability, and the ability to conform to one’s foot over time for a true custom fit.

14 oz. Berlin carries Quoddy moccasins for women & men in various colors.


Quoddy moccasins for women >>> 259,90 or 279,90 Euro
Sizes: US wms 6 - 8,5 >>> black, brown, navy or red

Quoddy moccasins for men >>> 289,90 Euro
Sizes: US 8 - 12 >>> black, brown, navy or red

You are welcome to order by phone or E-mail. Please don't hesitate to contact us with individual requests or if you have any questions regarding availability or sizes.
store@14oz-berlin.com

+49 (0)30 280 40 514

Mon. – Sat., 11 a.m. – 08 p.m.

Delivery via UPS.
Shipping only within the European Union.

Friday, June 8, 2012

3x1 >>> New handmade denim for women & men in the 14 oz. brand portfolio






In May 2011 denim connoisseur and entrepreneur Scott Morrison launched 3x1, the latest venture born out of his comprehensive knowledge and design experience. The name derives from denim’s standard weaving construction, the 3x1 right hand twill (RHT). The ‘3’ in 3x1 also represents Morrison’s third founding of a jeans brand.


Morrison now delivers a manufacturing and retail environment that captures a one-of-a-kind experience even for the most discerning customer. Based in New York City, 3x1 is both a flagship store and factory space, with a complete jean manufacturing faciity at its center. 3x1 offers an unprecedented vantage point to experience every nuance of creating exceptional denim.
“People love to learn how things are made; there’s always something magical about seeing the process itself. And perhaps it’s a sign of the times, but the thought that most resonates with me today is one of value, uniqueness and transparency”, says Scott Morrison.

3x1 is located in Manhattan‘s Soho District at 15 Mercer Street, where the 3x1 atelier provides an unprecedented vantage point to experience every nuance of creating exceptional jeans. From the personal touch of their tailors to their pattern makers and sewers working behind glass a pair of 3x1 jeans is brought to life in complete transparency.


With more than one hundred different denims and chambray fabrics on hand, there’s simply with nothing like 3x1 in the world. They carry the finest denims in the world. Rare, hard to find, and one of a kind qualities, from mills like Collect, Dova, Kuroki and Denim Area to name just a few - many of them exclusively.



CRAFTSMANSHIP
Every jean or denim product is sewn one piece at a time, there’s no assembly line at 3x1, and ready to wear styles are typically limited to just 8, 12, 16, 24, or 36 pieces of production per style with every piece individually numbered. Just 22 to 25 pieces are produced each day in the 3x1 atelier. 



A pair of 3x1 jeans is noteworthy for many reasons but one of the most apparent is the quantity of stitches per inch (SPI). Typically the more stitches per inch, the higher quality the sewing and the greater durability of the product. The typical SPI found in a regular denim product is somewhere between 7 and 9 stitches per inch – for a 3x1 product it’s between 11 and 14, or 50- 70% more than the average jean. The 3x1 team strongly believes that customers appreciate the difference, and know that taking more time with every step leads to a more beautiful, longer lasting product.

They make a pair of jeans the way a master tailor creates a bespoke suit, by hand. They’ve made it their mission to reinforce the value of time spent doing high quality work, which is why each sewer focuses on only one pair of jeans at a time, ensuring the highest level of attention to every detail, and complete ownership of the process from start to finish. There is as much individuality, handwork, and pride in a pair of 3x1 jeans as there is in any handmade object you would find from the finest luxury brands in the world.


SELVEDGE DENIM
Originally called ‘self-edge’, the selvedge refers to the narrow tightly woven band on either edge of the denim fabric, parallel to the warp. A selvedge end prevents the edge of the denim from unraveling. Old 28 to 31 inch shuttle looms produce denim where selvedges are closed, whereas on larger modern weaving machines, the weft yarn is cut on every pick, creating what is called ‘Fringe’ selvedge.



SEWING - single needle construction
In the 3x1 universe, a single needle sewing machine is the tool of choice. This means they actually sew each of these garment sections twice, instead of using a double needle machine. This is unusual, but for 3x1, sewing these operations on a single needle machine renders a clean, beautiful, one of a kind garment every time, making it an absolute necessity.

BUTTONS & ZIPPERS
The waist buttons are hand painted red and are exclusive to 14 oz. The button flys are distressed black micro mesh and each jean is finished with copper rivets. All buttons are YKK and the zippers are Riri, which are handmade in Switzerland.



14 oz. Berlin offers an exclusive selection of 11 mens and 2 womens styles from 3x1:

MENS
M1 Standard Straight >>> 329,90 Euro
Japanese 12 oz green caste selvedge raw denim from Kurabo
or
Japanese 13 oz red caste selvedge raw denim from Kurabo

M1 Standard Straight >>> 369,90 Euro
Japanese 12 oz green caste selvedge denim from Kurabo with ‘Wet x 2’ wash treatment.

M2 Military Chino – Classic Fit >>> 369,90 Euro
Japanese 10 oz selvedge twill from Kuroki, enzyme and stone wash to achieve its soft comfortable feel. Available in Navy, Khaki or Olive

M3 Fitted Straight – ‘Slim Straight Leg’ >>> 329,90 Euro
Japanese 12 oz green caste selvedge raw denim from Kurabo
or
Japanese 13 oz red caste selvedge raw denim from Kurabo

M3 Fitted Straight – ‘Slim Straight Leg’ >>> 369,90 Euro
Japanese 12 oz green caste selvedge denim from Kurabo with ‘Wet x 2’ wash treatment.

SE Tapered Fit – Special Edition for 14 oz. >>> 329,90 Euro
Japanese 12 oz green caste selvedge raw denim from Kurabo
or
Japanese 13 oz red caste selvedge raw denim from Kurabo


WOMENS
The waist band of all women’s jeans are cut in two pieces and sewn in a contour, so they lay nicely on the hip, and help eliminate gapping in the seat. Each belt loop is sewn inside out (in small 5” sections) and then reversed using a croche needle. The result is a ‘stitchless belt loop which is then hand-set into the waist band of every pair and reinforced with a bartack. Following more traditional European garment construction standards, the classic “J-stitch” is reversed for the women’s jeans.

W1 Low Rise - Channel Seam >>> 229,90 Euro
stretch denim with a channel seam on the inside of the leg, which has a slimming effect on the front leg, thanks to its smaller front leg panel.
’Wet x 2’ wash,  looks like worn for 1-2 years. Note the mid-blue color and slight 3D whiskering.

W1 Low Rise - Skinny >>> 229,90 Euro
black over-dyed stretch denim with softer hand feel and warmer black color.


You are welcome to order by phone or E-mail. Please don't hesitate to contact us with individual requests or if you have any questions regarding availability or sizes.
store@14oz-berlin.com

+49 (0)30 280 40 514

Mon. – Sat., 11 a.m. – 08 p.m.

Delivery via UPS.
Shipping only within the European Union.