NIGEL CABOURN LIMITED EDITION II >>> SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION

On January 18th 1912, Captain Robert Falcon Scott, along 
with four fellow comrades, became the first British explorers to reach the South Pole. Along the way they endured -40°c temperatures and crippling winds. On their return from the Pole, Scott and his comrades all perished from exhaustion, starvation and extreme cold.



The Nigel Cabourn Limited Edition II Collection is based by the 100th Anniversary of this historic event. In preparation for this monumental celebration, Nigel Cabourn visited the Scott Polar Research Institute at the University of Cambridge. Founded in 1920 to honour the achievements of Captain R.F. Scott and his colleagues, the Scott PolarResearch Institute is dedicated to perpetuating the legacy of polar exploration and science through research, education and public outreach activities.


 The Institute investigates the significance of the polar regions in a changing world and continues topreserve and make accessible its world-leading collections of polar books, archival manuscripts, artworks and artefacts.

Nigel Cabourn: “As a designer whose collections are inspired by history and real vintage clothing, my visit to the Polar Institute inspired me to base my AW12 collection on Scott and his team as a dedication to their fantastic feat. The wealth of information I found at the Institute spurred on my inspiration to create 12 individual garments that represent the achievements of Scott and his team on their last expedition. The Institute has a vast library of books on the Antarctic, and keeps the actual garments of the explorers, which have not only influenced my designs, but have inspired me to create new product developments for Harris Tweed, gabardine, and lambs wool as well as new buttons and trims. The aim of this collection is to honour these brave men and to produce real, hardwearing clothes that reflect each of the explorers.


 The persistence and courage of the five explorers have inspired me to create the Nigel Cabourn Authentic Limited Edition II Winter 2012 Collection. The 12 garments in this collection are inspired entirely by this fantastic expedition and produced in the United Kingdom with British fabrics where possible.”

 

The Nigel Cabourn Authentic Limited Edition II, which follows the success of Limited Edition I "The Ascent Of Cabourn" in 2003, consists of 12 pieces, limited to about 100 pieces each on the outerwear and 300 pieces on the knitwear and accessories.

Every garment has an individual sequenced number to show authenticity of the Limited Edition collection. Each individual style is named after an explorer that was on Scott’s expedition in 1912.

#1
Captain R.F. Scott
Naval Jacket
Fox Brothers Naval Lambs Wool made by Panache
Colours: Scott‘s Navy, Military
Price: 1099,90 Euro
 
 
#2
Larence E.G. Oates
Roll Neck Sweater
Natural British Wool by Future Textiles
Colours: Ash, Chestnut, Charcoal
Price: 319,90 Euro



 
#3
Edward A. Wilson
Overpant
Ventile - Tightly Wooven Gaberdine made by Cookson & Clegg
Colour: Stone Windowpane
Price: 629,90 Euro


 #4
Edgar Evans
Antarctic Smock Reversible
Ventile - Tightly Wooven Gaberdine made by Mackintosh
Colour: Stone Windowpane
Price: 2179,90 Euro


#5
Henry R. Bowers
Deck Jacket
Fox Brothers Wool made by Mackintosh
Colours: Antarctic White, Military
Price: 1039,90 Euro

 
#6
Dr. Edward Atkinson
Surgeon Jacket
Harris Tweed made by Panache
Colours: Brown Stripe, Charcoal Stripe
Price: 929,90 Euro



#7
Herbert G. Ponting
Photographer Down Jacket
Ventile with Down Filling and Sheepskin Collar
Colour: Dark Navy
Price: 2309,90 Euro


 
#8
Charles Seymour Wright
Glaciologist Balaclava
Natural British Wool by Future Textiles
Colours: Ash, Chestnut, Charcoal
Price: 79,90 Euro

 
#9
Bernard C. Day
Under Jersey
Round Knitted Jersey by Merz B. Schwanen
Colour: Natural
Price: 259,90 Euro



 #10
Apsley Cherry - Garrad
Expedition Boot
Handsewn with Comando Sole by Viberg Boot
Colour: Old Brown
Price: 1399,90 Euro


#11
Frank Debenham
Seaman Coat
Made by Mackintosh
Colours: Antarctic White, Military
Price: 1059,90 Euro

 
#12
Thomas Crean
Sleeping Bag Jacket
Made by Areo Leather
Colour: Natural Sheepskin
Price: 4029,90 Euro (picture shows the original vintage piece)

Watch the photoshooting for Mens File magazine that Nigel Cabourn's Team has made for the Limited Edition II
http://player.vimeo.com/video/50378406 



You are welcome to order by phone or E-mail. Please don't hesitate to contact us with individual requests or if you have any questions regarding availability or sizes.
store@14oz-berlin.com
+49 (0)30 280 40 514
Mon. – Sat., 11 a.m. – 08 p.m.

Delivery via UPS. Shipping only within the European Union.

Nigel Cabourn x Red Wing Shoes >>> The Munson Boot

The Munson Boot, the first collaboration between Nigel Cabourn and Red Wing Shoes. Here comes the full story:

It all began when Nigel came across some vintage British Army combat boots from World War I. The boots were in excellent condition - it was hard to believe that they were almost 100 years old - and they captivated him. He felt an intense desire to replicate those boots, carefully made to exacting quality standards in order to withstand the punishment they would endure, in today’s boots. 

When he thought about which shoemaker could create the boots, carrying on and maximizing the aesthetic virtues of those combat boots, one company came immediately to his mind: Red Wing Shoes. Red Wing stands for using traditional methods to manufacture high quality shoes for American work sites, offering extraordinary durability paired with excellent comfort. 



Although working in different fields, both Nigel and Red Wing have delved into the heritage of their respective fields for many years, shining a light on them, and paying particular attention to both detail and overall quality. Sharing this common approach, they felt deep respect for each other. This mutual respect has led to a close relationship between them, with both brands for example sharing some sales networks and showrooms in Europe. However, due to Red Wing’s flagship product based strategy, it never blossomed into a collaboration until now! Nigel’s passion about this project led Red Wing to engage in a joint collaboration of an unprecedented level for the shoemaker. 



The most notable feature of the Munson Boot, produced as a collaboration between Nigel Cabourn and Red Wing, is the shoe last. These boots are made using Munson Lasts, which haven’t been used by Red Wing since the late 1960s. 



While Professor of Military Hygiene at the Army Service School in Washington in 1912, Dr. Munson designed a last for infantry boots, known as the “Munson Last.” Over the course of 4 years, he studied the feet of some two thousand soldiers, and the fitting of many thousands of pairs of shoes. The result was the Munson Last. It was adopted as the official last of military boots for many years thereafter, and is still used today for some military boots

The most prominent feature of the Munson Last is the shape of its toe, which is built to follow the line of the tips of the toes. This last produces a spacious area from the center of the toes to the big toe, avoiding the tight squeezing of the toes. This shape prevents problems caused by incorrect shoe fits, such as bunions or hammer toes.
Furthermore, the Munson Last minimized the toe length as much as possible to eliminate dead space, as this would require an extra sole, inner sole, and upper leather material. Eliminating dead space resulted in reduced shoe weight. Rather than striving for aesthetic appeal, the Munson Last was carefully designed with the goal of protecting soldiers’ feet, and offering overall the needed functionality.



Red Wing, which manufactured military boots in World Wars I & II, had its own Munson Last factory, and used these lasts for its work boots as well. For both work boots and military boots, the priority is the protection of the wearer’s feet. This is why military boot Munson Lasts were widely accepted by workers, and used in many work boots. In Red Wing’s 1928 catalog, over half of its work boots were made using Munson Lasts, including the long selling Red Wing classic Billy Boots. However, by the end of the 1960s, the Munson Last was no longer being used in boot manufacturing. This collaboration with Nigel marks the first time that the Munson Last has been used in Red Wing’s factories in over five decades. The use of the Munson Last is an extremely important aspect of this collaboration, prompting Nigel and Red Wing to decide to call these boots “Munson Boots”.



The Munson Boot has other unique features, in addition to their lasts. They feature army green Harris tweed lining selected by Nigel himself. Harris tweed has some extremely well-defined characteristics, evaluated highly the world over, but unfortunately often only its appearance is discussed. One of the key traits of this fabric is that kemp is intentionally woven into it. Some articles state that this is to give it a “coarse feel”, but that isn’t, strictly speaking, the case. True, it does lend the fabric a rustic appearance, but ‘beautility’ came after the fact. The main reason kemp is woven in, is for durability. Kemp is difficult to dye, and resistant to fulling. This prevents piling, and the fiber drop-out it causes. 

The nature of the blackface wool and kemp’s special characteristics work in tandem to dramatically increase abrasion resistance, making the fabric itself durable. They are responsible for the durability that lets clothes made with Harris tweed last through generations. This is one of the reasons that traditional British Harris tweed was chosen for the lining, which experiences even more wear than the garment

The midsoles use full vegetable-tanned leather for outsoles. This has been combined with Red Wing’s original chemigum cork sole in a sturdy, two-layer outsole construction.
Red Wing’s subsidiary tanner has created the upper leather used in the boots, to be as close as possible to the actual vintage British Army boots Nigel owns. The leather is an oiled roughout leather. Roughout leather is a leather which is used with the flesh side facing out. Switching the direction of the leather ensures that even if the rough exterior is scratched, the grain will remain unbroken, which results in superior waterproofing. The choice to use roughout leather came not from an aesthetic design standpoint, but from consideration of the heavy duty outdoor use the boots would see. 



Army green was also selected for the eyelets. The eyelets are the largest of those normally used by Red Wing. This is because they must accommodate especially thick shoelaces. The deep green leather shoelaces, which match both the lining and eyelets, are thick and sturdy, and have passed Red Wing’s work site durability test.



These durability tests demand far greater levels of durability than those offered by natural materials such as leather and cotton, and normally can only be passed by synthetic fibers such as nylon. Nonetheless, amazingly, the extrathick leather shoelaces selected by Nigel passed these tests. However, this means that it takes some time to break in the shoelaces so that they can be easily tied. (The boots are delivered with two pairs of laces, one as described from leather, the other ones are the regular round Red Wing Shoe laces.)



With the Munson Boot, a fusion of Nigel’s deep knowledge of the military, work, and outdoor fields, and Red Wing’s over 100 year old heritage, Nigel has truly brought out Red Wing’s full potential. 

In closing, here is a small digression. Doctor Munson was dispatched to Japan as the leader of the American medical relief unit after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. The efforts of his team in the devastated Tokyo area resulted in the rescue of countless survivors. In recognition of these accomplishments, he was decorated with the Order of the Red Cross by the Japanese government. He continued on to create a great legacy during World War II, and was decorated by the British Army as well. 

Watch the you tube video with Gabor Magyar (Red Wing Heritage) and Nigel Cabourn with many further details about the Munson boot:

The Munson Boots from Red Wing Shoes in collaboration with Nigel Cabourn are limited to 2.200 pairs worldwide.

Available in US size 8 - 12.

RWS Munson Boot 04618D, chocolate, price: 499,90 Euro
RWS Munson Boot 04619D, hawthorne, price: 499,90 Euro


You are welcome to order by phone or E-mail. Please don't hesitate to contact us with individual requests or if you have any questions regarding availability or sizes.
store@14oz-berlin.com
+49 (0)30 280 40 514
Mon. – Sat., 11 a.m. – 08 p.m.

Delivery via UPS. Shipping only within the European Union.

NIGEL CABOURN A/W 2011/12

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English designer Nigel Cabourn has a passion for vintage clothing, function and essential details. His menswear collections present high-quality reinterpretations of functional workwear based on historic examples, expedition or army clothing. As well as a remake of his legendary Everest Parka, Cabourn is presenting in his collection special collaborations such as bags by Brady Bags and trousers by ARN Mercantile.

Nigel Cabourn lives and works in Newcastle in England, from where he travels to all corners of the globe. On his journeys, in vintage stores and at flea markets he collects clothing and ideas for his collections. Old illustrated books and publications about expeditions, motorsports or military history provide him with design inspiration for his work.

His philosophy as a fashion designer is based on an ambitious, down-to-earth principle. “The design style typical for me is very authentic,” explains Nigel Cabourn. “First and foremost, a jacket should fulfil its purpose. Functional details are central to my work.” He attaches particular importance to the intricate workmanship as well as the use of durable and hard-wearing fabrics, some of which, true to the original, are reissued especially for him. “To commemorate the 100th Harris Tweed we created an exclusive series including a jacket, waistcoat, trousers and a duffle coat made of a particularly thick tweed fabric,” explains Cabourn. The garments, which are produced in small quantities for his label, have become sought-after collector’s items. Cabourn has them produced exclusively in Japan and Great Britain and sometimes works with manufacturing sites that otherwise only produce for the British military.

Rare and well-preserved originals, which he stores in his archive of currently over 2,000 items, fascinate him. Follow the link below to see Nigel Cabourn talking about the inspiration of the new A/W 2011 collection.

http://www.cabourn.com/blog/?p=912

Here are three looks from Nigel Cabourn's A/W 2011/12 collection:


LEFT:
Surface Jacket Vachetta, Maroon, Waxcotton
Made in England >>> 949,90 Euro

Mallory Jacket Classic, Brown, Harris Tweed/Ventile
Made in England >>> 659,90 Euro

Handy Fishing Bag, Army Check, with Backpack Carrying Strap
Made in England >>> 999,90 Euro

Four Pleat Pant, Harris Tweed, Made in England >>> 449,90 Euro


MIDDLE:
Cameraman Jacket Classic, Navy, Mackintosh Fabric/Harris Tweed
Made in Scotland >>> 1099,90 Euro
Hooped Scarf, Navy/Bracken, British Wool >>> 69,90 Euro

Small Peak Jacket, Charcoal Stripe, Harris Tweed
Made in England >>> 699,90 Euro

Peak Label Vest, Charcoal Stripe, Harris Tweed
Made in England >>> 339,90 Euro

Four Pleat Pant, Harris Tweed, Made in England >>> 449,90 Euro


RIGHT:
Cameraman Jacket Lined, Tan, Mackintosh Fabric/Harris Tweed
Made in Scotland >>> 999,90 Euro
Hooped Scarf, Red/Bracken, British Wool >>> 69,90 Euro

Mallory Jacket Classic, Brown, Harris Tweed/Ventile
Made in England >>> 659,90 Euro

Two Tone Vest, Navy, Lambswool, Made in England >>> 249,90 Euro

Four Pleat Pant, Harris Tweed, Made in England >>> 449,90 Euro



14 oz. Berlin carries a huge selection of Nigel Cabourn such as the legendary Everest Parka in different colours, King George Coat, Costal Command Sheep Skin Leather Jackets, Short Down Puffa Norwegian Jackets, as well as pants, shirts, knitwear, scarfs, hats, bags, and accessories.

You are welcome to order by phone or E-mail. Please don't hesitate to contact us with individual requests or if you have any questions regarding availability or sizes.
store@14oz-berlin.com
+49 (0)30 280 40 514
Mon. – Sat., 11 a.m. – 08 p.m.

Delivery via UPS. Shipping only within the European Union.